PASSING the southern shore of Bahia Conception, you have the choice of riding a rocky trail to the Trans Peninsular... or you can take the mudflats.
This particular day I chose to ride the flats, as it were... flat out!
Now that may sound like a huge thrill but at 90kph, the little bumblebee, shrieking like a sewing machine, howling at 10,000 rpm, it's not as thrilling as it may seem at first glance. You certainly have the 'impression' of speed, without the reality!
WHAT is thrilling though if you happen to break thru that thin layer of dried mud and sand while WFO,* is the ensuing tank slapper.** That didn't happen on this day but has on others.
Nope, today it was just a (relatively) high speed dash from desert, boulders and cacti, across 5 km of pancake flat, hardened mud.
ONCE back on HW 1, I stopped off at various beaches including the post card perfect El Requeson. In several trips, I had missed my timing but today I caught the tide perfectly.
You see, when the tide is in the Island is, well an Island, separated from the beach by three or four feet of clear salt water, and several hundred yards.
ON this ride, the submerged sand spit was basking in the sun like a beached whale.
You can walk right across without getting your tootsies wet. In my case, I could ride across.
One of these trips I am going to pitch my tent on the other side of the Island for an overnight excursion!
TO say that the ride around the West side of the Bay is spectacular would not do it justice. That would be similar to telling someone Angelina looks nice!
It has to be one of the few accessible by vehicle, most beautiful beach areas anywhere in the World.
I'd ridden the East side of the Bay several years previously and except for the odd fishing camp, it is secluded and desolate, but utterly beautiful.
THE Mexican tourist board, prompted by promises by dozens of developers over the years, have thought about creating resorts here.
Many schemes have fallen by the wayside. Three things hold development back.
It's remote even by Mexican standards, there is a long stretch between Mulege and Loreto without state power and fresh water is scarce.
MY thoughts on this... thank goodness. Once the corporations and hotels move in, they (the Mexicans) and us nature lovers, will have lost one of the last remotely accessible areas in North America.
Yeah, yeah... it takes a pretty hardy soul to drive the 1000km of the T.P. to reach these parts, but those that have made the trek, know exactly what I am talking about.
I explored the immediate area for several weeks on my diminutive mount, getting 90 mpg the whole while, and thoroughly enjoying myself. I was in another of my woman problem modes, where you can appreciate the peace and calm Baja provides in it's seclusion.
HAVING the benefit of M&J's palatial palace of a palapa and Bounder, I didn't have to think about camping or cooking meals over a stove.
In the years since, a major blow, otherwise known as a Hurricane, swept across the peninsula and destroyed all these old palapas. They have been rebuilt, but the days of being Number 1 and having a convenient double garage to themselves... are history.
OVER the years, many of my friends have vowed to do a trip with me, but none have ventured to do it.
Each year, especially during winter months, hordes of touring motorcyclists on every type of bike, do the trip from So Cal to the beer gardens of Cabo. Open piped Harley's by the dozens stream by. Likewise open piped GSXR's and CBR's, test themselves on hundreds of little used curves.
THERE are tons of GS Beemers and KLR's passing by, but rarely does anyone venture off the beaten path into the back country, whose only visitors are Baja Mille riders and drivers... and a few guys like moi :)
I have said before, Baja is a place of beauty, tranquility and danger all rolled into one.
THIS trip was coming to a close. In a few days, the DT would be once again strapped to the rack, the Walden, to the roof. My cooler would have fried chicken, sandwiches and Cokes crammed in (Margaret is my second mother) and I would once more, point my Blazer northward.
Another Baja moment in my memory and photo album, and another journey, adventure... in the books.
*WFO Old motorcycle parlance for Wide Frigging Open.
** That's when your handlebars rapidly shake from side to side and you crap your pants.
 |
| Vast mudflat. |
This particular day I chose to ride the flats, as it were... flat out!
Now that may sound like a huge thrill but at 90kph, the little bumblebee, shrieking like a sewing machine, howling at 10,000 rpm, it's not as thrilling as it may seem at first glance. You certainly have the 'impression' of speed, without the reality!
 |
| Low tide at El Requeson beach to Island. |
Nope, today it was just a (relatively) high speed dash from desert, boulders and cacti, across 5 km of pancake flat, hardened mud.
 |
| Calm as a mirror. |
You see, when the tide is in the Island is, well an Island, separated from the beach by three or four feet of clear salt water, and several hundred yards.
 |
| El Coyote beach! |
You can walk right across without getting your tootsies wet. In my case, I could ride across.
One of these trips I am going to pitch my tent on the other side of the Island for an overnight excursion!
 |
| Playa Los Cocos. |
It has to be one of the few accessible by vehicle, most beautiful beach areas anywhere in the World.
I'd ridden the East side of the Bay several years previously and except for the odd fishing camp, it is secluded and desolate, but utterly beautiful.
 |
| Last rise. |
Many schemes have fallen by the wayside. Three things hold development back.
It's remote even by Mexican standards, there is a long stretch between Mulege and Loreto without state power and fresh water is scarce.
 |
| Playa Escondido, hidden beach. |
Yeah, yeah... it takes a pretty hardy soul to drive the 1000km of the T.P. to reach these parts, but those that have made the trek, know exactly what I am talking about.
 |
| Taken from the microwave tower, the Cortez. |
 |
| Palapa #1 Complete with dble palapa garage. |
In the years since, a major blow, otherwise known as a Hurricane, swept across the peninsula and destroyed all these old palapas. They have been rebuilt, but the days of being Number 1 and having a convenient double garage to themselves... are history.
 |
| High tide in the morning, is this great or what? |
OVER the years, many of my friends have vowed to do a trip with me, but none have ventured to do it.
Each year, especially during winter months, hordes of touring motorcyclists on every type of bike, do the trip from So Cal to the beer gardens of Cabo. Open piped Harley's by the dozens stream by. Likewise open piped GSXR's and CBR's, test themselves on hundreds of little used curves.
 |
| Skipper and Gilligan heading out on dawn patrol. |
THERE are tons of GS Beemers and KLR's passing by, but rarely does anyone venture off the beaten path into the back country, whose only visitors are Baja Mille riders and drivers... and a few guys like moi :)
I have said before, Baja is a place of beauty, tranquility and danger all rolled into one.
 |
| Another Baja journey comes to an end... |
Another Baja moment in my memory and photo album, and another journey, adventure... in the books.
*WFO Old motorcycle parlance for Wide Frigging Open.
** That's when your handlebars rapidly shake from side to side and you crap your pants.
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