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Saturday, September 22, 2018

Nova Scotia's Eastern Shore

SUZUKI DL 650, sitting on the wharf at Canso N.S. This is the easternmost (non Island) point in mainland North America


GOSH, I hate repeating myself... it's not that I like the sound of my voice and in any case, I'm not talking, just thinking.

I first came to the eastern provinces in 1975.  I was twenty, making good money as a machinist in Fort Mac Murray and riding a BMW R 60/5 loaded with camping gear and solo.

Since those early days, I have been back to the Island twice to live.

Try as I may, I cannot give justice in words to the scenery, the local culture or the history found here.

Scenes like this are a dozen to the mile


Unlike riding the west, which of course I have done for decades, it's an all day high speed journey to get "anywhere" By contrast there is no where in the three provinces (NB/NS/PEI) that cannot be reached in a fairly leisurely day ride.  You have choices of 'Freeway' style mileage making, or as I prefer the smaller slower and far more interesting back road routes .  If, like myself, you enjoy both pavement and non pavement riding, you will find any number of three digit roads to explore.  Heck you can even spend much of your day off road is you wish.

BACK in the day when I had three motorcycle shops to run, in the 1980's... finding time between work, raising kids, and the myriad of other things occupying my time made touring a rare thing.  Since my retirement in 2012, I have found time to explore much of the Maritime provinces but relish the thoughts of continuing for as long as I am physically able.  Sure this isn't as exotic as the South of France, or the mountains of Baja, but it is my home and I am dam proud of it!

There is still a teen in the family and although she is flexing her wings regularly (nuff said about that) it is difficult with three felines, all with different eating habits and various ailments, to leave the house for a few days much less a week.

Without the luggage system, the V is narrow and manageable 

Besides those handicaps, Brenda as vice president of FairVote Canada, is very heavily involved in doing what she can to change the way we elect our politicians.  This makes her time limited, so as I have done most of my life... I find myself on the road solo.

As Canadian Biker editor John Campbell had stated in his editorial;

("In praise of the lone rider") for the April 2005 issue, I ride alone by choice.   Besides contrary to what some of my long time friends call me... I'm not some anti social "cranky misfit", as JC so eloquently pointed out in same editorial.

Much of the time I couldn't find a riding partner who could spend 8 weeks on a Baja beach with nothing more than a JEEP, kayak, tent trailer and Serow!

On those rare occasions when I do have a riding partner, either on their own wheels or sitting pillion on one of mine, I like to share the experience.



LAST year the wife and I found time for a tour of the Sunrise Trail and the Strait of Northumberland and beyond to Fundy's north shore, eventually over-nighting in Oxford Nova Scotia.  (Blueberry Capital of the World apparently)  That trip was on my SYM Citicom 300i which surprisingly makes a very good touring machine.  Nimble, and comfortable with plenty of storage for a several day trip (should I be so lucky) and fast enough to ride the Trans Canada highway if required (boring as it is) Getting near 100 mpg doesn't hurt either!

Last year while researching riding in southern New Brunswick for my story on "Finding Utopia" (CB September/October 2017) I covered a lot of ground, taken countless photos of covered bridges, rode on and off a dozen ferry's and generally had myself a wonderful time!

Maybe I should do a blog using fewer words but more photos?


This year I was looking at maps, comparing destinations that could be within a day ride to home, counting and then discounting several options given our limited time frame.  Prime criteria was something I had not seen before and it had to be within a not too long a jog on the TCH if there was an emergency at home.  As I have mentioned our three rescue cats are always front and center in my mind.

Choices, choices...

After scouring the various maps and regions I decided on a trip to the Eastern shore of NS.  By utilizing my Suzuki DL 650 V Strom, which of course falls into the "Adventure" bike category (isn't every bike an Adventure bike??)

I'd never done the eastern shore but as I was reading about the history of U Boats operating in CDN waters during both world wars at the time, I was keen to see for myself what they were seeing.  Not through a periscope mind you, but certainly through the face shield on my helmet.

I have several tour-able motorcycles besides the VS... there is the aforementioned Citicom, but also my Triumph Thunderbird 900 triple, or my Yamaha XT 600 dualie. Even my Serow has done some travelling when required! 




 Typical channel ferry, this one near Gegogan Harbour

He has relatives living on PEI, not a surprise!

One SUZUKI and two passengers, the only ones on this crossing.



Excellent working multi surface touring bike. 


Each of these bikes is imminently capable and offer different souls to command. Because the roads we would be travelling were likely rough and perhaps even gravel sections, I felt the Suzuki would be the logical choice.  Now I must add that this is a BIG heavy and when fully loaded with gear, tippy bike, and more so when the tank is full (23L) it also had luggage capacity including three detachable suitcases, more suspension than my Citi or T Bird but also could run over 500 km on a single tank of gas if needed.

My research showed that this area is rather remote and towns maybe and were , distant from one another.

THE weather has been exceptional this year, best summer I think I have ever seen or felt living here now a total of 16 years.  I began putting into play what was essential for equipment, servicing the bike and dealing with those things required for the felines.

As it turned out, with my magnetic tank bag and the voluminous rear top case, the saddlebags would stay home.

To say I was excited, would certainly be the same as saying the Titanic ran into an ice cube!  I had the gear, I had the passenger and I had the bike ready to go on the outgoing tide (so to speak).

What is it about mountains and water that beckons... ?




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