BREEZY

AND sunny weather greeted me Saturday morning. It had been a full week since I had arrived in Azille. I was now on the road to Andorra, in the Pyrenees separating France from Spain. As usual I steered the Divvie clear of major highways, preferring to follow the more scenic, more curvaceous, older routes.





Since leaving Hungary 3 weeks ago, I had clocked more than 3000 kms on my Little Red. Other than the persistant clicking noise which I had isolated to the drivetrain, that had appeared right after the install of the new chain and sprockets, there had been no problems whatsoever.

She started immediately on full choke. Like some SuperModels diets, was using gasoline at a frugal rate of approximately 3.5 L / 100Km or in English... consistently averaging 60-65 MPG. Gas prices were typically about $1.30 Euro's or $2.20 cents a litre in CDN currency so this was much appreciated.

I can hear you guys laughing now!!!

Although I was checking oil regularly, the engine was consuming none at all. There was a little misting and a few drops from the oil filter sometimes after a hard run in hot weather, which I put down to a slight wisp at the rubber seal. Nothing at all that I was concerned about.




Some of you have asked about the bike I am riding...

We knew the bike in North America as the Seca II. Although we only had it a few short years, and (never did get the 900 shaft driven version,) I bought one new in 93. A forward inclined, 2 valve per cylinder, DOHC (double overhead cam) air cooled 4 cylinder fed by 4 downdraft carbs. A solid steel frame with modern geometry, good quality tires and ample brakes. The single disc on those fine front legs was the size of a medium pizza and plenty strong. The motor itself puts out about 60 crankshaft horsepower and the Italian pipes added perhaps 3 or 4 real BHP and maybe another 10 in imaginary power, they sounded so sweet.

Not loud but just a little bit angry. The 600 Diversion and it's Big Brother 900, were immensely popular over here, a huge sales success for Yamaha. Even though mine was nearly 17 years old, which in the motorcycle World where a "600" changes every 18 minutes it seems, made it terribly dated, I didn't give a hoot. Lusting after the latest and greatest was like changing girlfriends every 6 months. Exciting maybe... but expensive, tiring and ultimately, unsatisfying.

Nope, like MY latest, the Divvie was a very fine girl indeed! I was lucky to have her, and I knew that.

People say that singles and twins and triples sound different, and having all those bikes in my garage at home, I can agree. My T Bird with it's 'off road pipes' sounds positively "nasty" when I'm on the gas.

A four though... has a unique sound all its own. This little Diversion with it's Made in Italy Busso pipes, sounded like, hmmm... a 60's California surfer girl, that has just smoked her first joint! A little loud and crazy maybe, but a whole lot of fun...

Realistically Kis Piroska had a 'top speed' well over the Ton, likely close to 200 KPH. Last year, I had ridden the German Autobahn for a distance, glued to the tank bag, elbows tucked, with the clock showing 190! For those of you wondering, I had ridden Piroska thru dozens of European Radar signals that identify your speed. Great fun Wot! By the way... contrary to popular belief, European Autobahns, Stradas, Pias, and Vias... do have speed limits. In most countries they are posted at 130kph. Of course, the traffice flows somewhat faster than that in reality. I rarely exceeded 140 for any long stretches.

Most times my cruising speeds varied between 90 and 120kph. The engine need not be flogged. Redline is a very decent 9500rpm. From 3500 up, she pulled quite well and rarely did I need to downshift from sixth to pass someone. With it's lowered Euro gearing, 120 kph equated to 6000 RPM.

If required, a gentle push on the gearshifter once or twice, gave me more than enough passing power for any situation I encountered. The engine was very smooth with only some slight buzzing at speeds of 80 kph in top gear. (3500 rpm or so) The seating was 'sports tour' and very comfortable even at lower speeds, the 17 L tank fit well between my legs and the perch although completely stock, more than adequate for the 400 km average days I was riding.

Surprise!!!

At Quillan, I got lost. The highway I thought I was on,

(D 613) was in reality 30 km north of my actual position on D 118.

Yes, yes... Har har from the GPS boys.

My three comments on that are as follows, there is still a lot of Romantic appeal to reading fine lines on a tank bag mounted map.

Getting lost was by no means a "bad" experience. IN fact it allowed me to make contact with many people I may never have otherwise.

The third reason is unprintable.

NO matter, I had planned on entering Andorra from the North East, but instead came up thru Mont Louis from the south. By this time I had passed from the foothills (mountains to them) and was entering the true mountains. I could see gathering rain clouds in the distance hanging over the peaks. The temperature, that for most of the day, had been hovering in the 80 and 90's, was now steadily dropping. It would get into the low 60's and even dipped into the 50's briefly at one point.

Andorra is an interesting country. Totally mountainous, tiny, tourist oriented. An anomaly here in Western Europe, where countries like France and Spain were rather large in contrast.

Green... very green. I fed Piroska and myself shortly after crossing the border, and was climbing. The mountains were close but the valleys wide. I opted for the overland route, rather than the optional tunnel. (the Europeans love tunnelling by the way!) A good choice. The scenery was utterly spectacular. The overland portion was perhaps 5 times the length and colder, but far more interesting that a hole bored with precision thru the mountain. We climbed to over 7800' within a few short kilometers of stacked switchbacks, more open than some I'd ridden elsewhere. Here I was able to ride faster and smoother in a higher gear, the engine gradually dropping in power and needing a little more revs to keep the uphill pace.

Obviously winter oriented, ski lodges and runs were everywhere. I snapped a few pictures at the summit, snow melt from dirty snow, running under my tires. A group of riders on Beemers waived from their perch a few meters away and higher.

Older riders again.

IN fact most of the touring riders I encountered were at least my age. Made me think that Motorcycling is fast becoming a "hobby" for the seasoned rider. I wondered if that was due to the high cost of riding a bike in Europe. Purchase price equipment, gasoline etc.

After a short stint in the Principe of Andorre... I came to the gates of Spain. The crossing on the Andorran side, is covered by an expansive roof, snow coverage perhaps?

Pulled over by a very tall (6'13"?) Andorran official, he ask for my papers. While in the process of digging thru my jacket, he notices my Maple Leaf decal I had attached to Piroska's windshield. In perfect English he asks if I am CDN. I answer in the affirmative and he waves his hand, smiling, to move on. "No need for the papers."

I am grateful... the few times I have had to haul out all my documents, has been time consuming and occasionally confusing.

After all, the motorcycle I bought in Hungary... doesn't actually "belong" to me on paper. As a 'foreigner' I can't own a vehicle in HU.

What people do in these situations is have a trusted someone, a family member in my case, own the bike, insure it and then give you written authorization to ride it. I had read this years ago in Peter Moore's excellent "Vroom with a View" a Romantic tale of an Aussie riding an old Vespa 125 in Tuscany. (Ahhh yes... Tuscany) From my understanding, this is the case in much of Europe, so if you are planning on riding here, and not renting a bike, make sure you find these things out in advance. One other point, if you are thinking of riding a rental bike into some of Eastern Europe or the Balkans, be very certain that the rental agency will allow such a venture!

A word or three on that point. I've had some inquiries since beginning this Blog (still like the sound of that) about riding here. For the most part Europe is very safe, and VERY motorcycle friendly. I would reccomend though, hard luggage. I never had any problems with theft, but it was always a concern with my soft bags. Besides... it's easier to carry.

Never was I treated badly, I was allowed and encouraged to move up whenever lineups appeared. There was no waiting, using up fuel and overheating at lights or traffic jams. You can park wherever you find space, be it on a public sidewalk next to your table, city parks, or under that shade tree. Cars are far more aware of you and not only tolerant, but helpful in moving you along thru traffic. In Athens, while getting directions from some motorcycle Cops, I asked whether there were any traffic rules? Of course they said, but quickly added "Just be aware of what other cyclists are doing, keep with them, otherwise we will be called out to untangle you from someones bumper!"

In pretty much every city and town I encountered... drivers move aside to permit you to pass. Many a time I simply rode down the center line while vehicles in both directions parted the waves so to speak, allowing us motorcyclists to advance.

Like I say, that has been my Favorite part of riding the Continent!

What a drag it will be to return to Canada, and have to stand there in traffic, on those ultra wide lanes, waiting for a fender bender or traffic light to clear. Try and keep traffic moving at least a little at home, by riding to the front of a lane to the light, and you will have a dozen drivers calling the Polizie with your license plate number

"Yeah... I wanna report a crazy biker weaving thru traffic dangerously..."

This while they're busy A) yapping/texting on their Blackberries, B) putting on make-up while drinking a Tim Horton's half N half Grande, C) or speeding thru a playground zone whilst doing the above!

Sigh...

We have a lot to learn about moving traffic efficiently in NA. One of my friends remarked to me after last year, "Traffic in most of the world is designed to move, to flow. In NA, it's designed to STOP!"

How true!

Crossing into Spain 50 meters later required me to dig out my passport and docs... sigh...

I pulled off the roadway within clear view of the gates and had an apple. The temperature had shot up into the 80's once again and before the day would be done... into the low 100 range.

Instantly you can tell the difference between Spain, Andorra and France. It is low scrub here, dry and hot.

The slow ride thru the day had tired me out.

It's early, barely 5 pm, but I decide that I would pull off in a decent sized city and chill for the evening. Get some groceries, have a cafe, maybe do some walking. Soon after riding thru the stunning Gorges D'Organya, I come across the Hotel True. At 36.75 Euros, it looks pretty good to me. Quaint. clean, with it's own dining room and outdoor cafe. A fabulous view of the Pyrenees I had just ridden, it's perfectly located in the center of Oliano, right on rte C-14.

I was tired even though my day's mileage was barely past 300kms.

When the elderly proprietor placed my Passport and documents under the counter, I knew that was a mistake. They always ask for your passport, and we fill out a travellers card, but... I insist on getting it back. This time I was too tired and his English was much poorer than my Spanish.

I let it slip...